Pull-ups are ≠ pull-ups. This article explores which pull-up capabilities are truly relevant for climbing performance, what these differences actually imply — and what training recommendations can be derived.
Fingerboard training has been shown to improve finger strength and endurance. Load is the most important training metric to increase maximum strength. Load can be manipulated on the fingerboard either by reducing the edge depth, thus making the hold more challenging to hold, or by adding external weight to the climber.
Therefore, the aim of the study was to compare the impact of these 2 protocols on finger strength and endurance.
Deloading is a commonly applied strategy, although there’s little empirical evidence analyzing its effects in subsequent training cycles.
This study therefore aims to analyze whether including a one-week deload period influences muscle growth, strength, endurance, and power, compared to a continuous training approach.
One parameter that recently gained interest in strength & hypertrophy training is proximity to failure. It describes when to end a set. This metaanalysis provides a more nuanced understanding of how different proximities to failure influence maximum strength and hypertrophy outcomes using meta-regressions.
There is a vast body of research about the most effective training metrics to maximize hypertrophy and strength gains. This review, however, analyses a different aspect, namely if exercise variation influences hypertrophy and strength gains.
This review focuses on how strength training affects climbing performance and climbing-specific strength outcomes. It seeks to answer which training methods and metrics are the most effective.
The relationship between strength gains and training metrics depends on the level of training experience. Given that, this review looked at studies exclusively with trained competitive athletes to provide evidence-based strength training recommendations.
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