climbing physiology

Predictors of Climbing Performance

Critical Force in Climbing: Concepts, Measurement, and Practical Applications

By Marvin Winkler / 28/09/2025

Critical Force (CF) represents one of the most promising frameworks for quantifying fatigue resistance and endurance capacity in climbing. Extending the concept of critical power from endurance sports to climbing-specific isometric tasks, CF defines the highest sustainable force output that the finger flexors can maintain over time. Together with W′ — the finite capacity for work performed above CF — it provides an integrated model of both endurance and anaerobic reserve.

Recent research (Giles et al., 2019; Giles et al., 2020; Baláš et al., 2024) has established practical testing protocols that allow CF to be measured with high ecological validity. Two main approaches are commonly used: the multi-trial intermittent contraction test, which estimates CF and W′ from several submaximal trials, and the 4-minute all-out test, which determines CF from a single maximal effort.

In this article, we explore how these tests are validated, discuss their methodological differences, and outline their practical implications for both research and applied climbing training. Understanding and applying CF enables climbers and coaches to monitor physiological adaptations, individualize training intensity, and optimize endurance training on a scientific basis.

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The workshop is recommended for anyone with a few years of climbing experience who wants to learn about healthy and effective strength training in theory and practice. The theoretical part provides an initial insight into the basics of strength training and training plan design. The performance diagnostics show strengths and weaknesses in black and white and provide concrete starting points for your own training. Working out an individual training plan together not only makes things clearer, it also gives you something to try out what you've learned in practice. It was very pleasant that Marvin works with each participant individually. He responds to each participant and their specific needs and wishes, so that everyone can benefit from the workshop, regardless of their climbing level, previous experience, wishes and goals.

Marvin's workshop was varied, informative and a complete success for me. After a long period of stagnation regarding my performance and a simultaneous motivation problem, the workshop was the first time I had looked at my strengths and weaknesses, as well as a sensible training plan, and I had a few “aha” moments. Marvin has so much knowledge and experience that no questions were left unanswered, he manages to pick up participants with the most diverse prerequisites where they stand. The group size was ideal and I think the price was reasonable. All in all, a great experience, I'm motivated again and ready for the next level :)

An absolute must for every training enthusiast and all data nerds. Marvin has created an excellent scientifically based course format with this course. If you want to design your own training and understand what is behind each phase and its individual exercises, you will find the answers you need in this course. In addition to the practice-oriented approach of your own performance diagnostics, Marvin teaches the key points of climbing-specific strength training in a clear and easy-to-understand way in pleasant small groups. Practice-related exercises are underpinned with study data and the whole thing is broken down into simple take-home messages. Thanks to Marvin, I now not only know what makes me strong, but also why

The workshop helped me to better understand the topic of strength training and to be able to organize it in a more structured way. Marvin managed to explain the physiology of the muscle cell and muscle work in a clear way so that I could develop a better understanding of different training methods. The course days were characterized by a friendly atmosphere and a constant willingness to provide further explanations and discussions. The course catered individually to the different levels of ability of the individual participants. Thank you for two instructive days!

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