Strength Training in Climbing: A Systematic Review

Introduction

Research analyzing sport climbing consistently shows that training and physical abilities are the biggest factors influencing performance. Key components include climbing-specific attributes such as finger strength and endurance, shoulder and upper body power, and anaerobic fitness, whereas, general fitness has little predictability (Baláš et al., 2012; Fryer et al., 2018; Laffaye et al., 2016; MacKenzie et al., 2020; Magiera et al., 2013; Mermier et al., 2000; Winkler et al., 2023).

Most training recommendations, however, are derived either from other sports, from general strength and conditioning research, or based on personal experiences. This review focuses on how strength training affects climbing performance and climbing-specific strength outcomes. It seeks to answer which training methods and metrics are the most effective.

Study details

How was the study conducted?

  • The study conducted a systematic review of research articles.

What were the inclusion criteria of the studies?

  • Studies that examined the effects of strength training on climbing performance and strength indicators were selected for inclusion.
  • A controlled longitudinal design had to be employed with pretest and posttest.
  • Detailed information on training methods and participant characteristics had to be provided.
  • Participants had to be a representative sample of climbers/boulderers.
  • Climbing ability had to be reported using recognized scales.

How many studies were included in the review/meta-analysis?

  • 12 studies were selected, comprising a total of 273 participants.

What are the main characteristics of the included studies?

  • Characteristics of the participants:
    • Age: 16 to 40 years.
    • Included both male and female participants.
    • Climbing experience varied, from untrained individuals in some studies to elite athletes in others.
  • Characteristics of the training interventions:
    • Training methods – maximum strength (MS), hypertrophy (HYP) or endurance (END)
    • Exercise type – static or dynamic
    • Specificity – specific, semispecific, unspecific.
      Specific exercises involved training on a bouldering/climbing wall; semispecific included campus boarding, fingerboarding, and pull-ups; and unspecific referred to general exercises such as seated rowing or bench press.

Conclusion and practical application

Central conclusion:

  • Strength training positively affects climbing performance and various climbing-specific strength indicators, such as maximal finger and upper body strength, upper body power, and upper limb endurance.
  • A combination of maximum strength and hypertrophy or endurance training, with semispecific exercises, was most effective.
  • Beginner climbers see the greatest benefit of strength training interventions.

Corollary or secondary conclusions:

  • Both dynamic and static exercises are beneficial, with a slight trend toward combining both for optimal results.
  • Training specificity plays a role, with semispecific exercises yielding better results than unspecific exercises.
  • Climbing performance
    • Six studies measured climbing performance; three found significant improvements in the intervention group. Effect sizes were calculated from five studies, ranging from small to large, with the largest effect sizes seen in beginner groups.
    • A combination of MS and HYP training with static, semi-specific exercises led to the strongest effect sizes in climbing performance, while the same mixture with dynamic, semi-specific exercises resulted in slightly smaller effect sizes.
  • Finger strength
    • Different training methods, exercises, and exercise specificity lead to an improvement in maximum finger strength. 
    • A mixture of MS and HYP training and isolated HYP training including static, semispecific exercises resulted in the largest effect sizes.

Uncertainties based on conclusions

  • The optimal balance between different types of strength training remains unclear.
  • The long-term effects of different training methods on climbing performance requires further research.
  • More studies are needed to generalize findings across different climbing levels and age groups

Original Study

Langer, K., Simon, C., & Wiemeyer, J. (2023). Strength training in climbing: a systematic review. Journal of Strength and Conditioning Research, 37(3), 751-767.

References

Baláš, J., Pecha, O., Martin, A. J., & Cochrane, D. (2012). Hand–arm strength and endurance as predictors of climbing performance. European Journal of Sport Science, 12, 16–25. https://doi.org/10.1080/17461391.2010.546431

Fryer, S. M., Giles, D., Palomino, I. G., de la O Puerta, A., & España-Romero, V. (2018). Hemodynamic and cardiorespiratory predictors of sport rock climbing performance. Journal of Strength and Conditioning Research, 32(12), 3534–3541.

Laffaye, G., Levernier, G., & Collin, J.-M. (2016). Determinant factors in climbing ability: Influence of strength, anthropometry, and neuromuscular fatigue. Scandinavian Journal of Medicine & Science in Sports, 26(10), 1151–1159. https://doi.org/10.1111/sms.12558

MacKenzie, R., Monaghan, L., Masson, R. A., Werner, A. K., Caprez, T. S., Johnston, L., & Kemi, O. J. (2020). Physical and Physiological Determinants of Rock Climbing. International Journal of Sports Physiology and Performance, 15(2), 168–179. https://doi.org/10.1123/ijspp.2018-0901

Magiera, A., Roczniok, R., Maszczyk, A., Czuba, M., Kantyka, J., & Kurek, P. (2013). The Structure of Performance of a Sport Rock Climber. Journal of Human Kinetics, 36(1). https://doi.org/10.2478/hukin-2013-0011

Mermier, C. M., Janot, J. M., Parker, D. L., & Swan, J. G. (2000). Physiological and anthropometric determinants of sport climbing performance. British Journal of Sports Medicine, 34(5), 359-365.

Winkler, M., Künzell, S., & Augste, C. (2023). Competitive performance predictors in speed climbing, bouldering, and lead climbing. Journal of Sports Sciences, 41(8), 736-746.

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