Introduction
Pull-ups are one of the most frequently used exercises in climbing training and are widely applied to develop upper-body strength, power and endurance.
However, pull-ups are not a uniform movement and can be performed under a wide range of conditions:
- with or without momentum
- with or without using the stretch-shortening cycle
- at different movement speeds
- at different grip widths and hand positions
- at different intensities (assisted, bodyweight, or weighted)
- using different training methods (power, maximal strength, endurance)
These variations influence the underlying physiological and biomechanical demands of the exercise. As a result, treating pull-ups as a single capability overlooks important distinctions in the components that contribute to climbing performance.
Relevant Capabilities for Climbing Performance
Recent research has identified three primary physical components of the pull-up that correlate directly with climbing ability:
- Maximal Strength
There is a direct relationship between a climber’s maximal pulling strength and their overall climbing level. - Fatigue Resistance
Climbers capable of performing a higher volume of repetitions before reaching fatigue tend to exhibit higher climbing proficiency. - Coordination during explosive pull-ups
Only variables obtained during pull-ups performed with self-selected coordination were correlated with climbing level. Strict pull-up variables, in contrast, in which only the arms were used, were not positively related to climbing level.
Countermovement variables, which included stretch-shortening cycle effects, were also not positively, and in some cases even negatively related to climbing level.
Comparing Contraction Modes: Eccentric, Plyometric, and Concentric
In one intervention study, 30 advanced to elite climbers trained pull-ups over five weeks with two sessions per week. Participants were randomly assigned to one of four groups:
- an eccentric group (emphasizing the slow loaded lowering phases at ~95% 1RM),
- a plyometric group (explosive rebound pull-ups),
- and an isometric group (lock-offs at different elbow angles combined with explosive pulls).
- a control group without additional specific training
Researchers found that while maximal strength increased, with improvements ranging from approximately 2% to 5% across all groups, the specific training stimulus significantly altered the results.
- Eccentric training provides a strong stimulus for maximal strength and power development.
- Plyometric training is particularly effective for improving explosive output and endurance-related capacity.
- Isometric training, when performed at submaximal intensity, shows limited transfer to performance.
Since these results are based on only one study with several limitations (small sample size, short intervention duration etc.) it is important to compare these findings with the broader strength and conditioning literature on different contraction modes.
Eccentric, Plyometric or Concentric? — General Strength & Conditioning Findings
From a general strength and conditioning perspective, different contraction modes lead to similar improvements in maximal concentric strength when load and volume are matched.
- Meta-analyses show no meaningful difference in concentric maximal voluntary contraction gains between eccentric-only and concentric-only training when relative intensity is controlled.
- Since we are usually stronger in eccentric contractions, eccentric-only training requires higher absolute loads. It often results in greater eccentric strength gains, but due to the nature of climbing, it might be less relevant for climbing performance.
- Isometric training is more specific to the contraction mode and joint angle used.
When used in isolation, it is less effective for improving concentric strength. - Plyometric training leads to similar improvements in maximal strength but is more effective for developing power, particularly in advanced athletes.
Muscle Activation and Grip Variations
The way you grip the bar fundamentally changes the internal demands on your musculature.
- Chin-ups (supinated, palms facing towards you): This variation increases activation in the biceps brachii and pectoralis major, resulting in a more arm-dominant pull.
- Front pull-ups (palms facing away from you, shoulder-width): This offers a balanced involvement of the back and arms, characterized by high latissimus dorsi activation alongside strong contributions from the biceps and brachialis.
- Wide Pull-ups (Pronated): This shifts the focus to the upper back, increasing the load on the trapezius, lats, and rhomboids while reducing the relative contribution of the biceps.
The Impact of Hold Size
Pull-up performance was assessed on different holds and edge sizes such as a gym bar, a large hold as well as edges from 10 to 22mm.
As hold size decreases from a gym bar or large holds to smaller edge holds, there is a measurable reduction in repetitions, maximal power, and total mechanical work. Small holds also introduce significant finger flexor fatigue and alter muscle coordination.
For climbers, the choice is clear: if the goal is to develop raw maximal arm strength and power, the bar or large holds are superior. However, to train the integration of finger strength and arm power, training should incorporate smaller edges.
References
Devise, M., Quaine, F., & Vigouroux, L. (2023). Assessing climbers’ pull-up capabilities by differentiating the parameters involved in power production. PeerJ, 11, e15886.
Sordo-Vacas, C., Garcia-Ramos, A., & Colomer-Poveda, D. (2024). Intra and Inter-Session Reliability of Movement Velocity During Pull-Ups Performed at Small Climbing Holds. Journal of musculoskeletal & neuronal interactions, 24(4), 370–376.
Spudić, D., & Nosaka, K. (2025). Eccentric-only versus concentric-only isokinetic strength training effects on maximal voluntary contraction strength: A systematic review and meta-analysis.
Urbanczyk, C. A., Prinold, J. A. I., Reilly, P., & Bull, A. M. J. (2020). Avoiding high-risk rotator cuff loading: Muscle force during three pull-up techniques. Scandinavian Journal of Medicine & Science in Sports, 30, 2205–2214.
Vigouroux, L., & Devise, M. (2024). Pull-up performance is affected differently by the muscle contraction regimens practiced during training among climbers. Bioengineering, 11(1), 85.Vigouroux, L., Devise, M., Cartier, T., Aubert, C., & Berton, E. (2019). Performing pull-ups with small climbing holds influences grip and biomechanical arm action. Journal of Sports Sciences, 37, 886–894.
