Author name: Marvin Winkler

Strength and conditioning

The effects of two maximum grip strength training methods using the same effort duration and different edge depth on grip endurance in elite climbers

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Fingerboard training has been shown to improve finger strength and endurance. Load is the most important training metric to increase maximum strength. Load can be manipulated on the fingerboard either by reducing the edge depth, thus making the hold more challenging to hold, or by adding external weight to the climber.
Therefore, the aim of the study was to compare the impact of these 2 protocols on finger strength and endurance.

Strength and conditioning

Gaining more from doing less? The effects of a one-week deload period during supervised resistance training on muscular adaptations

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Deloading is a commonly applied strategy, although there’s little empirical evidence analyzing its effects in subsequent training cycles.
This study therefore aims to analyze whether including a one-week deload period influences muscle growth, strength, endurance, and power, compared to a continuous training approach.

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Johannes S.
Finally there is a professional service that enables me to structure my training purposefully and individually and plan it in a targeted way. I particularly liked the fact that Marvin's offer is based on the latest sports science findings and evidence-based knowledge, there is a lot of work behind it! I do now not only have the opportunity to train performance-oriented, but also in a variety of ways, which is motivating! An absolute recommendation, definitely do it!
Samuel S.
I was lucky enough to take part in Marvin's workshop. The principle of the workshop consists of a constant alternation between theoretical content and it´s practical application. In terms of content, the workshop focuses in particular on different training methods, which are explained from the ground up. The content is scientifically based and up to date (more up-to-date and well-founded than the lecture on training science from my sports studies). The workshop was very enriching for me. It started with performance diagnostics, followed by theory and practice on training design and ended with a self-designed training plan. All questions were answered in detail and I can now train according to a scientifically based training plan. Thank you Marvin!
Annette S.
The workshop is recommended for anyone with a few years of climbing experience who wants to learn about healthy and effective strength training in theory and practice. The theoretical part provides an initial insight into the basics of strength training and training plan design. The performance diagnostics show strengths and weaknesses in black and white and provide concrete starting points for your own training. Working out an individual training plan together not only makes things clearer, it also gives you something to try out what you've learned in practice. It was very pleasant that Marvin works with each participant individually. He responds to each participant and their specific needs and wishes, so that everyone can benefit from the workshop, regardless of their climbing level, previous experience, wishes and goals.
Silvia L.
Marvin's workshop was varied, informative and a complete success for me. After a long period of stagnation regarding my performance and a simultaneous motivation problem, the workshop was the first time I had looked at my strengths and weaknesses, as well as a sensible training plan, and I had a few “aha” moments. Marvin has so much knowledge and experience that no questions were left unanswered, he manages to pick up participants with the most diverse prerequisites where they stand. The group size was ideal and I think the price was reasonable. All in all, a great experience, I'm motivated again and ready for the next level :)
Katharina G.
An absolute must for every training enthusiast and all data nerds. Marvin has created an excellent scientifically based course format with this course. If you want to design your own training and understand what is behind each phase and its individual exercises, you will find the answers you need in this course. In addition to the practice-oriented approach of your own performance diagnostics, Marvin teaches the key points of climbing-specific strength training in a clear and easy-to-understand way in pleasant small groups. Practice-related exercises are underpinned with study data and the whole thing is broken down into simple take-home messages. Thanks to Marvin, I now not only know what makes me strong, but also why
Maria N.
The workshop helped me to better understand the topic of strength training and to be able to organize it in a more structured way. Marvin managed to explain the physiology of the muscle cell and muscle work in a clear way so that I could develop a better understanding of different training methods. The course days were characterized by a friendly atmosphere and a constant willingness to provide further explanations and discussions. The course catered individually to the different levels of ability of the individual participants. Thank you for two instructive days!

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